Understanding the Nitrogen Cycle in Custom Aquariumsfull article
DEC 30, 2010

 

The Importance of the Nitrogen Cycle

If you are thinking of installing a custom aquariums system, the most dangerous
water pollutant that you should be aware of is ammonia. This toxin is produced by the
waste expelled by fish and other decaying organic matter. Without proper filtration, the
amount of ammonia will rise to toxic levels, eventually killing all livestock. The process
of changing ammonia into non-toxic substances is known as the process of nitrification
and is achieved primarily through biological filtration. The goal of nitrification is to
convert ammonia into something harmless and non-toxic.

How the Nitrogen Cycle Works

The first step in the nitrogen cycle begins as soon as livestock are first introduced
into an aquarium. Leftovers from feeding the fish, waste, and other organic material, is
eaten by bacteria or fungi and converted into ammonia. This is known as the process of
ammonification. As ammonia levels increase, a species of nitrifying bacteria, known as
Nitrosomonas, break down the ammonia into nitrite. Soon, the ammonia levels begin to
fall and the levels of nitrite begin to rise. When the nitrite levels go up another species
of nitrifying bacteria, known as Nitrospira, converts the nitrite into nitrate. In nature the
process of nitrification continues in two ways. Some of the nitrates are absorbed by
plants. These plants are in turn eaten by organisms, which then release organic waste.
The waste is then converted into ammonia through the process of ammonification,
thereby completing the nitrogen cycle. Also, some excess nitrates are consumed by
anaerobic bacteria. They convert the nitrates into nitrogen gas which escapes into the
atmosphere.

Biological Filtration: The key to successful nitrification.

Needless to say, it is of the utmost importance that the process of nitrification
takes place in every aquarium. Otherwise, the fish will literally poison themselves to
death, by swimming in their own toxic waste. Let’s look more closely at what is
necessary to get this process started, and keep it going. The most basic element in the
process of nitrification is the nitrifying bacteria. If you can maintain a healthy amount of
all the species of bacteria necessary to complete the nitrogen cycle you will successfully
keep your water toxin free. So, you might be wondering how you are going to find all
these kinds of bacteria to keep in you aquarium. Well, luckily for us fish-keepers, the
bacteria will grow naturally in your aquarium as long as they find a suitable
environment. The preparation of an environment to support the growth of nitrifying
bacteria is called biological filtration. The bacteria require two things in order to
establish a population in your aquarium.


Requirement One: A place for the bacteria to grow.

The first requirement is a home for the bacteria grow and thrive in. The key
element in a bacterial home is the surface area. In freshwater aquariums the bacteria
will grow in the substrate, but this will not usually provide enough space to grow an
adequate population of bacteria to deal with the waste of the fish population. Instead
the health of the aquarium is dependent on the biological filter. Most canister filters
contain layers of pebbles or other materials which have a large surface area. This is to
provide a home for the bacteria to grow in. For large aquariums, or, if a large population
of fish is desired, a wet-dry filter is usually required. The wet-dry filter has the water drip
through a compartment of bio-balls which are specifically manufactured to provide a
tremendous amount surface area for the bacteria to grow on. Additionally, in a wet-dry
filter the bio-balls are not submerged in water. Instead, the water drips through the bioballs
(hence the name wet-dry) which provides a nice moist atmosphere for the bacteria
to grow in. In a saltwater aquarium the live rock and live sand has a large surface area
and can sometimes suffice to grow an adequate population of bacteria. Nevertheless, in
large marine aquariums, especially in custom aquarium systems a wet-dry filter is
usually added to increase the amount of fish that can be safely kept in the aquarium.

Requirement Two: A constant supply of nutrients.

The second requirement is a food supply. Nitrosomonas will require a constant
supply of ammonia to be converted into nitrite. The Nitrospira will require a constant
supply of nitrite to convert into nitrate. Without a supply of these nutrients the
nitrifying bacteria will not grow. We have explained how to provide a home for your
bacteria with a biological filter. Now, let’s look at the process of building up a supply of
nutrients for the bacteria in a new aquarium.

Aquarium Cycling: What to expect when you start your new aquarium.

When your aquarium is filled for the first time, there is very little organic
material in the water. Therefore the small amount of bacteria that is in the water will
not multiply because they do not have a source of food. At this stage it is crucial not to
place too many fish in the aquarium because there is no bacterial population to perform
the nitrification process. No matter how big your biological filtration is, because there is
no bacterial population living there yet, the waste will not be broken down into nontoxic
substances. The ammonia levels will go up and the fish will die. This is like having a
huge water-treatment plant to clean a cities drinking water, but if no one is working in
the plant operating the machinery the water will not be cleaned. So, how do you get the
bacteria to begin growing in the environment that you prepared for them? This is a
three step process.

Step One: Ammonia

First you should place one or two small fish in the aquarium. These fish will
produce waste which will be converted into ammonia. This will cause the ammonia
levels to spike. The population of nitrifying bacteria that converts ammonia into nitrites


(Nitrosomonas) will grow because they now have a source of food. Over a period of
about three weeks the ammonia levels will gradually fall until they reach zero.

Step Two: Nitrite

At the same time as the ammonia levels are falling, the nitrite levels will rise,
because the population of bacteria that consume nitrite (Nitrospira) has not yet grown
to full strength. While nitrite is less toxic to fish than ammonia, it is still a toxic
substance that must be removed. After four to six weeks the nitrite levels will slowly go
down to zero as the population of Nitrospira grows.

Step Three: Nitrate

I’m sure you already guessed that the falling of the nitrite levels will cause a
spike in the nitrate levels in the aquarium. (If you don’t understand this see Figure 1
below.) Low levels of nitrates are not toxic for fish, but they do cause unattractive algae
growth and high levels of nitrates have been attributed as the cause of some fish
diseases. As we discussed before, in nature the process continues when plants consume
the nitrates, and, when anaerobic bacteria convert the nitrates into nitrogen gas and
release it into the atmosphere. In freshwater live plant aquariums the plants will
consume some of the nitrates, also in saltwater marine aquariums there might be
pockets of anaerobic bacteria living in the live rock that convert the nitrates into
nitrogen gas which rises to the surface of the aquarium and is released harmlessly into
the atmosphere. However, both of these scenarios will rarely remove the nitrates from
the water as fast as the nitrifying bacteria can produce it. Therefore, the nitrate level
will continue to rise. Fish-keepers deal with this problem through periodic water
changes. A 15% to 20% water change every two weeks will usually suffice to keep the
nitrate levels within safe limits. The amount of your water change should depend on the
nitrate levels. If there is a high level of nitrates in the aquarium, perform a larger water
change. If the nitrate levels are low even a 10% water change is fine. Nitrate levels
below 20 PPM are ideal, but, levels below 40 PPM are still perfectly safe for your fish. In
all aquariums ammonia and nitrite levels should be kept at zero.


After The Initial Cycle is Completed

As the population in your biological filter increases you can slowly add more fish.
Each fish added will increase the waste in the water, which will in turn increase the
populations of all the species of bacteria necessary to break down the waste into
nitrate. Depending on the size of the aquarium it can take up to six months before the
maximum biological load that the filtration system can handle is reached. The key is to
take it slow. By far the most common cause of failure among new aquarium hobbyists is
putting in too many fish too fast, causing the toxin levels to rise way past what the
nitrifying bacteria can handle. This will poison the water and can cause the death of all
the fish in the aquarium! As a fish-keeper you are investing enormous amounts of time,
effort, and money, you owe it to yourself to ensure that your investment is not in vain.
Be patient in the beginning and you will create a balanced eco-system that will grow
with you for many years.

Testing Important Parameters in the Custom Coral Reef Aquariumfull article
JUL 2, 2010

 

Calcium
 
Calcium is one of the most important levels to keep an eye on while maintaining a custom reef aquarium. Most corals use calcium from the surrounding sea water to form their skeletons which is composed primarily of calcium carbonate. Studies have shown that as the calcium level drops below 360 ppm in a reef aquarium, it becomes increasingly harder for corals to collect ample calcium for calcification (i.e., skeletal growth). That is why it is recommended that most aquarists keep their calcium levels around that of which you would find in natural seawater (~420 ppm). Studies have shown that bringing calcium levels above 420 ppm does not improve calcification. Which is why maintaining a calcium level in your tank close to that of natural seawater is recommended (anywhere between 380 and 450 ppm)
 
Alkalinity
 
Next of the list of important water parameters is alkalinity. Alkalinity (bicarbonate) works covalently with calcium in the calcification process and is just as a necessity to monitor as calcium in a successful reef aquarium. Corals use up bicarbonate in the surrounding sea water and turn it into carbonate and use that along with calcium to build their calcium carbonate skeletons. However testing bicarbonate is easier said than done and most situations testing bicarbonate is inaccurate or impractical. As a surrogate for testing bicarbonate reef aquarists test for alkalinity since bicarbonate generally reads the same ions that contribute to alkalinity. Alkalinity measurement is simply the amount of acid (H+) needed to bring the pH down to 4.5 in the aquarium water.
 
 
 
 
Salinity
 
This one seems like a no brainier however not monitoring regularly monitoring the salinity level of an aquarium can lead to coral bleaching and other unnecessary fish deaths.
 
Cells in marine organisms have internal regulatory system that expand and contract depending on the salinity levels of the tank. This is known as osmoregulation.
 
Osmoregulation is the active regulation of the osmotic pressure of an organism's fluids to maintain the homeostasis of the organism's water content; that is it keeps the organism's fluids from becoming too diluted or too concentrated.
 
Basically what that means is that if the cells become too diluted with salt they will dry up and die and subsequently if they become too concentrated with fresh water (i.e. low salinity readings) the cells will rupture.
 
Natural ocean water has a salinity of about 35 ppt, corresponding to a specific gravity of about 1.0264 and a conductivity of 53 mS/cm so I would say shooting for any other salinity level different than natural seawater would be at the aquarist’s discretion.
 
Temperature
 
79° F year-round is a good level to keep a marine aquarium at. It is recommended to keep your tank a little cooler in the summertime. As temperature rises, Co2 and O2 are less permeable in water. This is why it is recommended not to let your tank run too hot and inhibit calcification due to inadequate O2 levels. A chiller is usually necessary on systems running lots of metal halide lights and/or pumps that warm up the aquarium water as they run.
 
All things considered, temperatures in the range of 77-81° F will suffice unless there is a habitat specific reason to keep the tank beyond that rage.
 
 
PH
 
The Ph of natural seawater varies greatly depending on location and even depth. However for the custom reef aquarium about 8.2 is appropriate. Some reefs and habitats can obviously thrive in a much wider Ph range.
 
 
The Ph range from 7.8 to 8.5 is generally appropriate for the reef aquaria, with a couple guidelines:
 
A.) If you choose to run a reef in a low ph range in mind, (such as a pacific style reef) make sure to maintain a calcium level of at least 400 ppm. Sometimes when Ph and Calcium levels fall, (which is not uncommon in a tank with Co2 injection) calcification can be stunted if the calcium is not at an adequate level
 
B.) Coral calcification can be quickly stunted in situations where ph reaches the low or high extremes, however aquariums can still operate successfully in the low 7.8-7.6 range if you make sure alkalinity and Calcium are adequate. Tanks with Co2 injectors are able to successfully keep a stable reef aquarium at lower Ph readings due to the fact that Co2 keeps the carbonate alkalinity in the water reasonably high.
 
C.) On the opposite side of the spectrum, Calcium carbonate precipitates abiotically when the ph is higher than 8.5 causing a drop in calcium and alkalinity, and subsequently clogging heaters and pump impellers with calcium deposits. Make sure to keep calcium and alkalinity at a comfortable range if you choose to run an aquarium that sometimes reaches 8.4 or higher, which is not too uncommon when dosing limewater.
 
Magnesium
 
Magnesium in an important element to maintain in the reef aquaria as its collaboration with the calcium and alkalinity balance is a crucial one. Magnesium binds to calcium carbonate crystals which keep them from attracting more calcium and carbonate and growing into deposits. One should try to maintain the natural seawater level of magnesium. Higher or lower levels can cause problems.
 
 250-1350 ppm is fine, and levels somewhat outside that range (1200-1400 ppm) are also occasionally suitable. It is recommended that magnesium levels should be measured after every water change to ensure they are adequate. If the aquarist is having trouble maintaining stable calcium or alkalinity levels in their aquarium, or they are experiencing a large amount of abiotic precipitation of calcium carbonate on their pumps and equipment, chances are low magnesium levels are the culprit. 
 
Phosphate
 
Many macro algae, corals or other rapidly growing organisms in the reef aquarium readily consume phosphate. Phosphate that does not get consumed by typical reef inhabitants at the rate of which calcium or even ammonia does which is why it is recommended to keep phosphate below 0.03 ppm. When phosphate rises above natural levels it can- A.) Stunt the calcification process causing corals not to grow and B.) Trigger unwanted algae blooms in  the aquarium. That being said it is important to not let you phosphate get to levels above 0.03 ppm.
 
Ammonia
 
Ammonia is necessary element to keep an eye on in the reef aquarium, although toxic to most marine inhabitants, it does have benefits in the marine tank at lower concentrations, some macro algae species willingly consume it to make proteins, DNA and other nitrogen containing biochemicals. Bacteria also consume ammonia and turn it into nitrite, nitrate, and then nitrogen gas (the nitrogen cycle). In an established reef aquarium ammonia is rapidly consumed and turned into nitrogen before it becomes harmful to fish. However it is still recommended to test your ammonia levels periodically to make sure everything is running smoothly, particularly after a water change.
 
 
 
Critical water parameters to test for in the coral reef aquarium -
 
 
Parameter:       Reef Aquaria Recommendation:           Typical Surface Ocean Value:1
Calcium:           380-450 ppm                                       420 ppm
Alkalinity:         2.5-4 meq/L                                         2.5 meq/L
                        7-11 dKH                                             7 dKH
                        125-200 ppm CaCO3 equivalents       125 ppm CaCO3 equivalents
Salinity:             35 ppt                                                   34-36 ppt
                         sg = 1.026                                           sg = 1.025-1.027
Temperature:    76-83° F                                               Variable
pH:                   7.8-8.5 OK                                                        .
                        8.1-8.3 is better                                     8.0-8.3 (can be lower or higher)
Magnesium:      1250-1350 ppm                                     1280 ppm
Phosphate:        < 0.03 ppm                                             0.005 ppm
Ammonia:         <0.1 ppm                                                Variable (typically <0.1 ppm)